The 3×9 MTB drivetrain is still superior

My hardtail MTB’s drivetrain is awesome. It has a 22-32-44 set of chainrings and a 12-36 9 speed cassette (changed from 11-34 stock). I ride it maybe 5% of my MTB rides but every time I take it out I enjoy it. Yes, it is about three pounds lighter than my new full suspension bike, and the smaller wheels and steeper head angle make it steer more quickly with less effort. And that is worth a lot. But a lot of this enjoyment is the gearing.

Admittedly I have never tried a 2×10-12 system. Those might try be even better. But I doubt it because even a 2×12 would have three fewer gears than the 3×9.

Compared with my 1×12 bike, the gaps between gears are much smaller and this is everything. The 9 speed cassette has tooth intervals of 12-14-16-18-21- 24-28-32-36 (stock: 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34). On my 12 speed, the cassette is 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51 with a 32 t chainring. I am much more limited in the power that I can put out at my advanced age, even more so in the power/weight equation. Having the perfect gear at all times reduces effort and fatigue, at least perceptually. (I don’t run power meters so I can’t swear to objective reality.) I have a most-comfortable cadence at most times. If the trail starts to get steeper and I need to drop a gear, a larger gear gap means slowing . Or requires an uncomfortable increase in cadence. Same thing in the other direction if the climb starts to gradually slacken…Narrower gaps maximizes the acceleration.

It’s running the M772 SGS Shadow model of the 9-speed Shimano XT, which was the end of the line before they went to 10 speed with the M773. The first XT derailleur came out in 1983 and this is the 11th generation, released in 2008. It is no wonder it works well. The rear derailleur doesn’t have a clutch but I don’t have any problems with the chain dropping off the chainrings. The shifting is still really good, a firm thumb push for the full lever travel downshifts reliably across the cassette in any chainring. The front trigger lever upshifts once for a pull or one or two gears with a push…and it all just works. The front derailleur reliably and quickly down shifts either ring, and upshift from middle to big ring. The upshift from granny to middle ring takes a bit of care, soft pedaling and a full travel push on the lever. It may require a trim adjustment depending on where I am on the cassette but this is life with front derailleurs. In my experience.

Still! After quite a bit of use.

This bike was my main MTB for about ten years. Admittedly with sporadic riding but it has held up well.

The Hayes Stroker brakes are definitely not as powerful as the Shimano XT ones on my new bike. Since they are on 160 mm rotors, instead of 180 mm, and are over a decade older in design, I am not too fussed. Larger rotors would probably be an easy upgrade but it’s not worth the cost until I need to replace them.

Hiatus….

I drafted this post several months ago and in interim I’ve been running the WheelTop EDS OX electronic shifter on it with the 11 sp cassette. One of my kids borrowed it recently and may again, so I switched it back to 3×9. I used a new cable, but the same old housings because I didn’t have any spare new housing. It worked GREAT today on my ride.

I also put on a Shimano Deore level front brake and new 180 mm rotor, a few weeks back. At first it didn’t seem to be much improvement but on the most recent ride, a day after a ride on the full sus, the brake seemed better than at first. An improvement over the Stroker with 160 mm rotor. Maybe it’s just getting bedded in after a few rides.